Commercial activity in colonial Cavite was one of the most
cosmopolitan in the world. Thanks to Fray Andres de Urdaneta, the Basque
navigator and Augustinian friar from Ordizia, who discovered the torno-viaje
(or the return route from Manila to Mexico) galleons from Acapulco bearing
Mexican silver, salted cod and other produce from Spain and the new world
weighed anchor in nearby Cañacao Bay before consigning their cargoes to the
aduana. Manned by Sangleys (people of pure Chinese ancestry) smaller boats and
clippers from the Chinese province of Fujian Would dock nearby to trade rice,
silk, ballast, pottery and at times cheap labor in exchange for the coveted
Mexican silver.
Even before the
ayumtamiento (municipality) established shipbuilding and dry-docking operations
(known as barradero from the Spanish barrar, “to smear”) the Sangleys who came
mostly from Fujian, were regular visitors to colonial Cavite. The barradero was
where the tripolantes (workers in the dry dock operations) daubed alquitran
(coal tar) on the hull of the galleons as insulation against the elements. When
the Spanish settlers suspected the Chinese were threatening their security,
they fortified the area with muralla (high thick walls) at the same time
surrounding it with moats; the place was called Puerto de Cavite (port of
Cavite). Following this, the Chinese then decided to establish a settlement on
the peninsula in what is now known as Sangley Point.
Having passed the test of time, and with roots that can be traced back to the
glorious years of the galleon trade, the bacalao, quesillo, calandracas and
tamales are the most enduring culinary traditions from this period. Unfortunately,
war, industrial change and rural-to-urban migrations have greatly reduced
Cavite’s former splendor. Even the use of the Chabacano language, is now on the
decline. What has endured, however, are the culinary traditions still being practiced
by a few artisans devoted to the traditional craft of producing those exquisite
recipes. But with abundance of global food chains, the standardization of
Filipino cuisine and the advancing age of the artisans, theses recipes
may eventually become extinct.
Article written by: Mr. Ige Ramos
Posted with PERMISSION
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